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How to determin Hurricane Version 1, 2 or 3?

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How do I determine the year my hurricane was manufactured. More importantly, what model it is?

I need to purchase a new rudder steering kit to replace the existing strings. How do I determine what kit I need for my canoe?

1 Answer

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There have been three versions of the Hurricane rudder system.  We call them V1, V2, and V3.  The original Hurricane had stainless steel cables, and a stainless steel T-bar on the top of the rudder shaft.

We switched to the plastic tiller arm in V2.  This is the most common setup, and came about at the same time as the Twist-lock iakos.

In the latest version, V3, we moved the rudder forward from about 2 feet to 3 feet from the stern.  We recessed the housing into the deck, and went back to a T-bar, but with Dyneema cables.  The deck of the canoe has three small cutouts above the rudder, two for inspection, and one for access.

All of the three versions now use Dyneema, so no special tools are needed for restringing the cables.

When restringing it’s best to use the existing cable to pull the new cable through. Because the tubing inside the canoe is small, you can’t just tie the old to the new (except for on older V2 canoes with the stranded Spectra cables).  I usually use a needle and thread to attach the old to the new.  I then carefully pull the old out, and the new in.  If they separate mid-way, it makes the restringing process more difficult, so take a little time and be sure the ends are secure.

You can refer to the cabling instructions document here for help restringing the cables: https://outriggerzone.com/support/documentation/

Also feel free to call me (Michael) at  808 573-7852 for help.

Your Answer

Category: Tags: asked December 23, 2013

1 Answer

1

There have been three versions of the Hurricane rudder system.  We call them V1, V2, and V3.  The original Hurricane had stainless steel cables, and a stainless steel T-bar on the top of the rudder shaft.

We switched to the plastic tiller arm in V2.  This is the most common setup, and came about at the same time as the Twist-lock iakos.

In the latest version, V3, we moved the rudder forward from about 2 feet to 3 feet from the stern.  We recessed the housing into the deck, and went back to a T-bar, but with Dyneema cables.  The deck of the canoe has three small cutouts above the rudder, two for inspection, and one for access.

All of the three versions now use Dyneema, so no special tools are needed for restringing the cables.

When restringing it’s best to use the existing cable to pull the new cable through. Because the tubing inside the canoe is small, you can’t just tie the old to the new (except for on older V2 canoes with the stranded Spectra cables).  I usually use a needle and thread to attach the old to the new.  I then carefully pull the old out, and the new in.  If they separate mid-way, it makes the restringing process more difficult, so take a little time and be sure the ends are secure.

You can refer to the cabling instructions document here for help restringing the cables: https://outriggerzone.com/support/documentation/

Also feel free to call me (Michael) at  808 573-7852 for help.